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| This is the light beginnings of the off-shore winds |
I woke up early this morning and checked the surf as usual. There was no wind. Then, 5 minutes later it was blowing like crazy. It was like someone had turned on a fan. A super big-ass fan!! But, I had promised Paul Wall we would surf. On my way to the beach, I noticed the flags were blowing off shore!! But it was a super hard, super cold off-shore!! So cold!
The waves were great; the wind was holding them up, making them nice and hollow. The only problem was getting into them. The wind was blowing us out of them and we'd hafta take off blind cuz of the water being blown into our eyes as we dropped in.
We only lasted for about an hour. By then the tide drained out and our bits were frozen. The wind was now blowing even harder! We were stoked cuz we got some good waves. It was a fun, fun, fun session!
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| Can you see a guy in the barrel? |
After surfing I ran into a friend who told me about a guy who got assault charges for fighting (over a wave). I guess he broke some kids' nose. Everyone needs to f-ing mellow out!! I'm sick of all the fighting/drama in the water. Ugh!
On a more positive note; I hope we all get new boards and some good waves for Christmas!!
P.S. Thanks to Paul Wall for the great pics!!
Teri
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